Partner Country Feature: Men in Masks and Tigers in Chains

Mah Meri (meaning “jungle man”) is a group of indigenous people or “orang asli” living on Carey Island, about 28km south of the city of Klang in Selangor state, and just a couple of hours’ drive from Kuala Lumpur.

There are five Mah Meri villages on Carey Island with total population about 4,000. Mah Meri is indeed a subgroup of the Senoi ethnic group of indigenous people in Malaysia. Senoi are generally found in the central part of the Malaysian peninsular, and are believed to have come originally from Yunnan via Southern Thailand around 10,000 years ago.

Also known as the “Mask Men of Malaysia” due to their wood carving skills, the tribe still preserves age-old heritage and culture. They are thought by many to be among the best mask-makers in the world. Still practicing anismism, it can be noted that most of their wood carvings features animistic characters; one of the factors that contributed to the works receiving the UNESCO Seal of Excellence. And while the men are highly skilled in wood sculpting, the women have exceptional abilities in the art of leaf origami.

Mah Meri girls in traditional dressCarey island has been home to the Mah Meri for a little over a hundred years, following an intriguing past for this people, during which they had once been seafarers, travelling around the Southeast Ocean and living on sampans, before permanently installing themselves on the Malaysian mainland. Some say the Mah Meri people came ashore to avoid capture and enslavement by pirates operating in the Straits of Malacca and the Andaman sea. Another legend tells of a past in which the Mah Meri had centuries before been living on the Malaysian peninsula before fleeing after one of their members assassinated an evil sultan. Today, they remain fishermen and traders, while living in small wooden houses in the forest of Selangor, with minimal modern conveniences or interaction with the outside world.

Many Mah Meri have assimilated into modern life, with jobs in nearby plantations and farms, but much care has been taken to ensure that their ancient rituals and customs are documented and preserved.

The Meaning of Mah Meri Masks and Sculptures

Masks: Mah Meri culture predates modern religions. They believe in two parallel worlds: the human world, which is 24 hours a day, and the spirit world which is 12 hours (midnight to mid-day).  One day every year, the gates open between the two worlds. This is a festival day and traditional masks are worn by men as they celebrate the event, while other tribe members wear special costumes while offering gifts and blessings to their ancestors.

Tiger in chains

Tiger in Chains

Sculptures: Mah Meri sculptures depict how a person or an animal became a symbol to be worshiped by the tribe. The sculptures are created to replace something that has been destroyed, as they believe that everything, whether living or inanimate, has a spirit. Each carving is crafted from the nyireh batu trees, which can be found in mangrove swamps.

Perhaps the most famous and certainly the most complex is the sculpture of the spirit of “Harimau Berantai” – the Tiger in Chains, depicting a tiger, which was caught in a trap and left to die by villagers because they were too frightened to release it.

Its design is perpetuated today by Husain Pion, son of the master creator, Pion anak Bumbong, who passed away in May 2014. It is a highly sophisticated sculpture with 7 interlocking rings, and a moving sphere in the mouth. The ball inside the mouth means the “stone of power”. The 7 interlocking rings depicts the “sequence of events”.

About the Mah Meri Cultural Village

Mah Meri Cultural Centre.jpgA gallery/museum and traditional house in the village compound is open to visitors, where one can admire a large number of masks and carvings and learn about the tribe’s rituals.

The village is open throughout the year, but the best time to visit Pulau Carey‘s Mah Meri Cultural Village is during Hari Moyang (Ancestor Day), which takes place around March or April each year, Puja Pantai (Oceanic Healing) or during a wedding ceremony.

Husain Pion - the Tiger in Chains_3Visitors celebrate with the Mah Meri people, as they dine on a mouth-watering feast, of exotic seafood, shellfish, island herbs and fruits. An amazing 3-and-a-half-hour re-enactment is based on historical events, with real characters, authentic arts, crafts and powerful sea gypsy music, and song.

Mah Meri Cultural Village Demonstrations

  • Mangrove timber sculpturing demonstration
  • Tree bark clothing, a fabric which all indigenous clothing are once made
  • Thatched roof making
  • Pandanus weaving

Interactive Demonstrations

  • Leaf Origami Lessons
  • Traditional games
  • Blowpipe range

Interesting to note: Carey Island is an increasingly popular stop-over for cruise lines, who organise day tours of the Mah Meri cultural village.

During the festival, the tribesmen and women wear intricately carved masks and perform the mystifying Tarian Jo-oh (Jungle Dance) and Tarian Topeng (Mask Dance), which are main features of the festival repertoire.

An Experience in Ancient Indigenous Culture

Tourists can experience a day of sea nomad ceremonial rituals, amazing re-enactments, powerful cultural performances and storytelling as the Mah Meri relive significant events and sacred rituals. One is able to share in a traditional welcome ceremony of before being invited into the cultural village. Amidst the sacred shrine with ritual offering to their ancestors, here the visitor will witness the making of time honoured crafts of sculpturing Moyang from mangrove timber and watch the making of the ancient form of intricate palm leaf origami to appease the spirits. At the heart of the village, the performance arena offers a powerful and entertaining cultural repertoire, where one can witness the seven marital rituals and the ancient craft of oceanic healing.


SOURCE – TourMAB – see original article and download high resolution photos